Camisoles

	Model 826012S from Queena is a camisole and thong set made of 88 percent nylon and 12 percent spandex.

Dwindling demand drives makers to explore new markets and develop products that use natural-fiber fabric.

China suppliers of nighties and camisoles continue to adopt practical measures to offset the negative effects of the financial crisis that has hit the US and other key markets.

After experiencing 25 percent average revenue growth in the past three years, shipments in the line are expected to weaken due to sluggish demand, particularly in the US and the EU. As such, makers are shifting their focus to other destinations such as the Middle East, South Africa and Russia.

The financial crunch is also hampering production. Unable to recoup profits, at least 5 percent of the supplier base, mostly small companies, exited the line in 2008.

Further, economic challenges have driven buyers to become more conservative with their sourcing habits. For instance, smaller-volume transactions are being made.

From 3,000 pieces, minimum orders are currently down to 1,000. On top of this, many customers are now requiring shorter delivery and sampling time.

In recent months, however, it has been observed that the economic climate is gradually improving. Production costs have declined and the currency situation has stabilized.

The China government also increased tax rebates to 15 percent in February this year. Moreover, it grants loans and subsidies that companies can use for product promotion, and to upgrade their facilities and equipment.

This favorable situation is expected to lighten the burden on makers, which are currently operating on slim profit margins. Nonetheless, suppliers still see a need to remain aggressive.

To sustain viability, companies are launching highervalue nighties and camisoles. Releases are made more fashionable and some can even be used as outerwear.

Suppliers are also tapping the “green” market by increasing output of models in environment-friendly textiles. Consequently, new designs from China come in silk and other types of natural-fiber fabric such as bamboo charcoal, soybean and modal. These are usually woven into satin or mesh, and trimmed with lace, embroidery, beadwork, ribbons and bowknots.

In an added effort to maximize margins, companies are streamlining operations by reducing material wastage and product defect rates. Further, some makers are hiring skilled workers with at least five years of experience in the line to boost productivity.

	Queena offers model 826029S, a camisole, bra and panty set in allover plaid pattern.

China makers offer a range of nighties and camisoles in different styles and materials, and across all price points. The majority of output consists of low-end and midrange models that bear OEM brands.

Quotes start at $1.50 and may exceed $6.50. Product prices are determined mainly by the raw materials used and design complexity.

Pure cotton, polyester and silk are commonly employed. Popular types weigh between 80 and 150gsm. While cotton features breathable and moisture-absorbent qualities, polyester is wrinkle-resistant and easy to dry. Models that come in blended or pure forms of silk boast a luxurious feel and increased luster.

Bamboo charcoal and soybean fiber are also seeing greater usage. With physical properties similar to silk and the functions of cotton, these two materials have the extra advantage of being more environment-friendly as they come from sustainable sources.

Releases made of bamboo and soybean are soft and smooth to the touch, anti-bacterial and deodorizing.

Modal is sometimes employed and often blended with cotton or spandex. The textile’s moisture-wicking ability is 50 percent higher than cotton’s. Designs that incorporate modal are usually 20 percent more expensive than pure cotton versions.

Most fabric and accessories are sourced in Guangdong, Zhejiang, Fujian and Jiangsu provinces. Some textiles and trims such as microfiber and lace, however, are imported from Japan, South Korea and Thailand.

Manufacturing nighties and camisoles does not require several steps. It generally starts by cutting the fabric according to the pattern. After sewing, lace trimming, buttons and other accessories are added, if needed. Suppliers may also employ embroidery and printing. Washed and trimmed garments are then inspected.

QC is generally conducted at each production step. Inspectors examine raw materials, and semifinished and finished products for uneven and broken stitches, loose thread, size mismatching, puckering and other sewing defects.

Before packaging, the nighties and camisoles are compared against customers’ specifications for accurate craftsmanship. Finished products may also be sent to third-party institutions such as SGS or Intertek for further testing.

Makers who subcontract certain processes usually send specialists to their partner factories for on-site monitoring.

China is home to approximately 1,000 manufacturers of nighties and camisoles. Private locally owned companies make up an estimated 90 percent of the supplier base, and the rest are joint ventures.

Small and midsize operations dominate the industry. In general, small makers have fewer than five product development specialists who coordinate with customers in creating new models, although some can release their own designs as well. Such companies typically purchase ready fabric and accessories to make nighties and camisoles in-house. QC inspections are usually performed according to customers’ requirements.

Midsize operations have between five and 10 R&D technicians. Although most companies are OEM-oriented, some can create designs on their own, often marketing these on an OBM basis.

Embroidery is usually done in-house. QC personnel conduct inspections at each stage of production. Large enterprises have more than 10 designers. Releases are mostly midrange and high-end, and a number of them carry in-house brands.

Some large companies can manufacture fabric inhouse. Their factories also house specialized facilities for processes such as printing, finishing and embroidery.

In addition to physical inspections, QC teams of large suppliers can carry out testing for colorfastness and chemical content. Third-party evaluation is available on request.

The provinces of Guangdong, Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Heilongjiang are the major sourcing hubs for nighties and camisoles, accounting for more than 70 percent of China’s outbound shipments.

The largest concentration of suppliers is in Guangdong, where nearly $420 million worth of exports originated last year. The cities of Shantou, Guangzhou and Foshan are the key production centers.

Companies in Zhejiang shipped approximately 200 million pieces of nighties and camisoles in 2008. Makers in the province usually focus on silk designs.

Combined exports from Jiangsu and Heilongjiang amounted to more than $360 million last year. These provinces target mainly the low-end and midrange segments.