Makers reduce health risks

	This hair clip from Holy Good is set with rhinestones and has enameled surface details. The body is made of lead- and nickel-free zinc alloy.

Companies are utilizing materials free of lead, cadmium, nickel and other toxic chemicals.

Product safety is a growing concern in the China hair accessories industry as more buyers become aware of the harmful substances present in releases.

Up until this year, a number of the country’s shipments of jewelry and head adornments for children have been found with elevated lead and cadmium levels. While there are fewer cases connected to versions for adults, companies are nonetheless pressured to examine the line as similar materials are adopted.

The various types of heavy metal are commonly used for the body of clips and pins, which are the dominant exports in the category. The inputs are utilized for their low melting points, and good tenacity and elasticity.

Other harmful elements, including nickel, are employed during the electroplating process. Azo is mainly introduced into fabrics when dyeing.

To decrease health risks, suppliers are seeking safer alternative materials. The most-popular options are zinc alloy variants that contain accepted levels of lead, cadmium and nickel. Versions can even boast amounts so negligible they may be legally labeled as toxin-free. As there is no formal rule for women’s releases, makers adopt guidelines such as the CPSC’s 300ppm lead limit for children’s accessories.

In addition, several tier 1 factories are partnering with schools, including Zhejiang University and Kunming University of Science and Technology, to develop inputs further. Among those utilized are high-grade zinc, tin and bronze-silver alloys.

The first alternative, in particular, emphasizes much lower heavy metal amounts in comparison with regular kinds. Some contain up to 40ppm of lead. The new variant is also more cost-effective than traditional ones as it helps cut down production outlay by about $0.04 per piece while retaining quality.

Only a few suppliers, however, can employ the innovative inputs since the resources are either under exclusive agreements or protected by patents.

Apart from procuring nontoxic materials, China authorities are implementing projects to raise in-house testing standards. The local administration in Yiwu, Zhejiang province, a major hub for the line, has set up a committee to carry out research and analysis on the latest requirements.

Together with the Entry-Exit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau, the body provides product-verification training to more than 5,000 workers and managers at no cost. According to makers, the sessions help clarify new overseas standards and demonstrate current QC practices. Other than these efforts, the Yiwu government aids suppliers in building their own laboratories and recruiting R&D specialists.

Most factories are investing in software such as AutoCAD to improve R&D capability and speed up the manufacturing process. Businesses are also subscribing to industry journals to keep abreast of the latest fashion trends. In line with this, suppliers send product development members to overseas trade shows regularly.

In terms of design direction, makers are highlighting feminine styles. Models using bowknot, butterfly, heart, dragonfly, flower and fruit motifs continue to be popular.

Moreover, manufacturers are offering formal and novelty types that come in swan, musical note, teardrop, tiara or starfish shapes. Other items have multiple geometric patterns.

Companies are also creating pieces for different markets. Suppliers, for instance, produce acrylic and resin versions to cater to clients in the Middle East and Africa.

To achieve innovative textures and looks, factories are combining various materials. The inputs include polyester, cotton, nylon, linen, acrylic, resin, wool, animal hair, feathers, wood, iron and zinc alloy. Embellishments such as rhinestones, beads, CZs, fabrics and imitation pearls are added as well. Some items boast enameled surfaces.

Among the trimming choices, rhinestones are the most-popular as they come in an array of shapes, sizes and colors. The inlay, however, may be difficult to attach depending on the supplier’s manufacturing capability.

Releases in bold reds, pinks and blues remain the best-sellers. Metal parts are usually plated with rhodium, gunmetal, silver and gold. The last two are available in either a regular or antique look.

Hair ornaments account for 10 to 15 percent of China’s overall fashion accessories exports. The line consists of pins, clips, claws, headbands and ponytail holders.

The first two products are available in zinc alloy or other types of metal, and may use solid hues.

Other variants are embellished with eye-catching CZs, rhinestones, ribbons, or crocheted heart, floral or butterfly patterns.

Hair claws or clamps utilize mostly acrylic and can have metallic finishes. Popular versions feature allover rhinestone inlays.

The majority of headbands employ an acrylic base, which is often covered in fabric. The textiles come mainly in solid shades, or polka-dot or striped motifs. Additional adornments include beads, rhinestones, grommets, animal fur and bowknots.

Ponytail holders, meanwhile, are relatively easier to produce compared with other items in the category. The most-basic designs consist of elastic or rubber bands wrapped in cloth. Low-end pieces are packed in sets and have a single color. Upscale kinds boast a variety of trimming choices.

Pricewise, the least-expensive hair accessories are below $0.25. They use minimal decorations and employ zinc alloy, PS, resin, cotton, nylon, linen, polyester or acrylic.

Midrange versions are between $0.25 and $0.50, and are embellished with plastic, glass or wooden beads, and a few rhinestones or CZs. The material options include stainless steel.

Releases exceeding $0.50 are considered high-end. Pieces are made of stainless steel, silk, wool or sinamay. Models utilizing regular or top-grade zinc, tin, or bronze-silver alloys are also available. Feathers, animal hair, rhinestones, CZs and Swarovski crystals may be adopted as trimmings.

In coming months, suppliers intend to limit upward quote adjustments to 5 percent.

During 1H10, China hair accessories exports rose about 30 percent to at least $295 million YoY. The primary contributor to the upward trend is the resurgence of transactions. Some plants, in fact, have been running at full capacity since January. Resultantly, shipments are expected to improve 15 to 20 percent by year-end compared with 2009.

Manufacturers, however, remain cautious in light of the European debt crisis. A few businesses were already affected, especially with the euro falling almost 15 percent against the yuan in the past six months.

Compounding the situation is the possible appreciation of the local currency against the US dollar. After the national government’s decision last June to allow the yuan to float, the value increased about 0.7 percent.

To protect profit margins, many companies now provide allocations for probable fluctuation when determining prices. Makers also prefer that clients transact using the more stable greenback rather than the euro.

Several suppliers are even providing quotes in yuan and then asking buyers to pay the equivalent in US dollars based on the exchange rate at the time of delivery.

Some businesses, however, may accept orders to be transacted in euros if clients agree to absorb possible price increases.

Another challenge affecting the hair accessories industry is the labor shortage as more migrant workers choose to apply at inland factories. These plants are not only closer to their homes but also offer competitive wages. To attract employees, major coastal sourcing centers such as Zhejiang, Guangdong and Shandong provinces are raising the minimum salary level.

The first production hub increased compensation rates at least 14 percent as of April 2010.

Both Guangdong and Shandong adjusted remuneration about 21 percent in May.

Many companies, in fact, currently offer income packages higher than the base requirement. On top of that, payment for managers, engineers and skilled workers are up 10 percent.

Further, businesses are lowering educational and age qualifications to widen the labor pool.

Other manufacturers continue subcontracting less intricate processes to interior provinces such as Henan, Anhui or Jiangxi. This enables plants to maintain production capacity even with a smaller in-house workforce.