Lace trims

	The heat transfer-printed organza ribbon from Yama is 100 percent nylon with up to level 4 colorfastness.

Heightened awareness over the safety of garment trimmings has China makers reevaluating certain steps in the production process.

There has been a sharp increase in item recalls, particularly in the EU and the US, over possible poisoning and choking risks, according to China National Textile and Apparel. In this regard, the EU implemented in 2008 the EN 14682:2007 to regulate the use of cords and drawstrings in children’s clothing.

Even so, January to April 2009 statistics from the area show these incidents have risen 270 percent YoY. Of the 74 questioned pieces, 70 percent came from China, increasing the country’s recall rate by 643 percent. Moreover, 12 of the 17 children- and infant-use products to be pulled out were made in China.

Meanwhile, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission in July 2009 reported 44 cases of recalls, 25 of which were imports from China. The items’ defects included possible electric and fire hazards.

Amid the growing number of pullouts involving China-made products, garment trimming companies have become more cautious, with many suppliers themselves advising clients to observe safety. This is because some garment makers have, in the past, neglected prescribed handling.

This, however, is not the biggest difficulty. For many businesses, particularly those with small factories, the challenge starts as early as the materials sourcing stage.

Suppliers need to ensure that incoming manufacturing inputs are nontoxic in compliance with the various international standards limiting the levels of several hazardous substances.

The US’ CPSIA, for instance, requires that starting Aug. 14, 2009, lead in surface coatings should be limited to 90ppm. Up to 600ppm was allowed previously. Another provision specifies that lead levels in substrates be lowered in three phases to 600, 300 and 100ppm.

The first two steps were implemented in Feb. 10 and Aug. 14 this year while the last will be enforced on Aug. 11, 2011.

The CPSIA also limits the use of certain phthalates.

Japan, on the other hand, has a directive that prohibits excessive levels of steel, nickel and cobalt in garment trimmings such as hooks, buttons, snaps and pull tabs.

To conform, major enterprises in China often procure materials from suppliers with relevant third-party certification, an approach that smaller operations cannot readily adopt.

Material sources for the latter are actually shrinking as not all of these providers can meet the various requirements on hazardous matter. Furthermore, accreditation for such would entail additional outlay for testing and could take a substantial amount of time.

Aside from thorough materials selection, companies are addressing safety concerns by monitoring the use of restricted substances during actual production.

This is because certain additives, while harmful in large amounts, are necessary to ensure thatfinished designs retain their form, or as in the case of lead, for luster.

The metal, which initiated many recent recall cases, is used as a surface coating for plastic beads, zipper heads, buttons, eyelets and fasteners. It is also mixed into paint, dyes, printing ink and glazes.

Formaldehyde and azo are sometimes added to dyes, finishing agents and printing ink used in fabric trimming.

Meanwhile, antimony, arsenic, lead, cadmium, chromium, hexavalent chromium, cobalt, copper, nickel and mercury could be introduced during several steps in making metal and glass designs. These include powder metallurgy, glass burning, dyeing, printing, enamel coating and electroplating.

Plastic pieces such as beads, buttons and buckles can be added with azo, phthalates and heavy metal during the injection, pigmentation, coating and printing stages.

Still with regards to safety, many China suppliers in the garment trimmings industry are complying with the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 during production.

This strategy has even helped companies targeting the US as buyers there now also require this type of certification.

Conformance is often done through chemical analysis, although other types of testing are performed to ensure that products do not leach or give off poisonous fumes.

In addition, colorfastness is checked so as not to risk dye ingestion, and pH levels are examined to prevent skin irritations.
Impact of compliance

	J&J offers 10.6x6cm plastic buckles in custom packaging.

While conformance to Oeko-Tex, CPSIA and other standards enables differentiation, certain drawbacks do abound, foremost of which is its impact on manufacturing expenses.

Suppliers will have to allocate additional funds for third-party testing and certification, the cost of which depends on the number of categories and items to be verified.

The process is also time consuming. Initial Oeko-Tex accreditation, for example, takes about two to four months. Further, companies must apply annually for an extension of validity, as the certification is good only for one year.

Suppliers in both upstream and downstream industries, therefore, are being encouraged to work together closely so as to minimize these inspection costs.

For instance, if a certain material is deemed Oeko-Tex-compliant, its downstream products no longer need testing. Such information can then be posted on the association’s website, enabling makers to locate and collaborate with verified upstream providers.

The majority of the suppliers, however, have not taken advantage of this service, preferring to operate independently.

These companies only prepare for certification when large orders are expected.

Nonetheless, more than 2,100 Oeko-Tex Standard 100 titles were issued up until June 2008, according to Testex.

Of these, over 1,400 went to mainland China, 475 to Hong Kong and nearly 190 to Taiwan.

Despite the pressure high inspection costs are placing on quotes, most suppliers have no plans of passing the expense to buyers. In fact, companies intend to keep prices stable for the next six months amid rising competition and slowing demand.

Aside from international regulations, garment trimming makers in the mainland have to follow domestic guidelines on safety.

The General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, and Standardization Administration issued recently three sets of requirements for cords and drawstrings to be used in children’s clothing.

Implemented on Aug. 1 this year, the GB/T 22702-2008, 22704-2008 and 22705-2008 were based on US’ ASTM F 1816-97(2004), the UK’s BS 7907:1997 and EN 14682:2007, respectively.

In addition, some existing national standards were revised and now have provisions that monitor and prescribe allowable levels for harmful substances that are even lower than European regulations. The GB/T 17592, for example, keeps azo content to 20mg/kg whereas it is 30mg/kg in the EU’s EN 14362.