Corsets

	Foshan Nanhai Sunny Underwear Co. Ltd makes model L7137C, a corset in 81:19 nylon-spandex.

Three major trends are currently influencing China’s shapewear industry. These are the use of seamless knitting technology, basic designs that double as layering pieces, and retro styling.

Makers are using special circular knitting machines, mostly from Italy’s Santoni, to come up with corsets, girdles, bodysuits and tank tops in just one step. Nylon, cotton or polyester yarn is blended with spandex and then knitted directly into the desired contour.

Despite the high barrier to entry, focusing on these types of garments benefits the manufacturer in the long run by reducing labor expenditure and enhancing efficiency. A traditional cut-and-sew item usually takes six to nine minutes to finish, while a seamless style can be done in just three. The technique also diminishes the influence of human error, therefore elevating quality.

Moreover, the resulting products are comfortable for the user because there are no stitches to dig into the skin nor closures that pinch. They lay flat underneath clothing and create resistance for a slim silhouette through the spandex content.

R&D teams, which are usually composed of 10 specialists, are taking this capability a step further by designing shapewear that can be worn outside. They use the same fiber mix and turn it into camisoles, tank tops and T-shirts that can be layered underneath cardigans and blazers. A key difference in these models is the availability of colors and patterns that fit current apparel styles.

Manufacturers of the seamless garments are mostly found in Yiwu, Zhejiang province. It is estimated that 80 percent of China’s seamless underwear exports originate in the city.

The hub also possesses about 4,700 circular knitting machines, representing 85 percent of such equipment in the country, and 26 percent of Italy’s exported tools.

In addition, some companies are focusing on a niche market, mostly in Europe, for vintage-inspired corsets. Products come in silk fabric with plastic or stainless steel boning and hook-and-eye or lace-up closures. They are embellished with lace, embroidery and ribbons.

Even with these diverse trends, functionality is an overall concern for manufacturers. Recent configurations contour multiple parts of the body instead of just one.

For example, corsets, bodysuits, camisoles, tank tops and T-shirts can be fitted with a built-in molded or shelf bra to lift the bust as well as hold in the abdomen. T-shirts may have the added benefit of slimming the arms. Girdles are made with high waists, panels at the buttocks and long legs to sculpt more areas.

Material innovations also contribute to performance. Makers are using microfiber to add comfort to their products. The moisture-absorbent and ultrasoft material can be treated for breathability and resistance to bacteria. It can be processed on a raschel knitting machine to take on a textured lace or crochet effect. A branded version, Meryl from Nylstar, dries quickly and is said to be 30 percent thinner than cotton. It is also anti-static.

Roica spandex, produced by Asahi Kasei of Japan, is another trademark alternative aside from Lycra. Versions with moisture transpiration, deodorizing and thermal-resistant properties are available.

Natural substances are being adopted as well. Bamboo charcoal fiber is utilized for its anti-bacterial, deodorizing and breathable characteristics. Its tensile strength and elasticity lends durability to the product. Suppliers are also incorporating chitin, a substance derived from crustacean shells, for its moisturizing, deodorizing and anti-bacterial benefits.

In terms of fabric finishes, aloe imparts a softer hand feel as well as moisturizing and breathable properties.

Memory alloy in the form of mesh sheets is also being employed for shapewear that can improve posture while remaining flexible.

Most materials and trimmings are sourced locally in fabric hubs such as Guangdong, Fujian, Zhejiang and Shandong provinces.

Polyester satin fabric averages $2 per yard while nylon-spandex blends are $3.50 to $7 per yard, depending on the amount of spandex.

Even bamboo charcoal and chitin are available from domestic providers. Only branded textiles are usually imported, and cost 50 to 100 percent more than local counterparts.
Price determinants

Corsets, girdles, control briefs, bodysuits, camisoles and tank tops are the main types of shapewear offered by China suppliers.

Besides shapewear, makers produce other types of undergarments such as brassieres, panties and men’s briefs, and hosiery.

Prices vary between $2 and $65 based on the materials used, functionality and the complexity of the design.

Nylon, polyester, cotton and spandex are the main types of fiber employed, with cotton and spandex more expensive. Higher proportions of these two add to costs. Spandex, which provides the shaping capability, can make up to 30 percent of the blend. Branded versions such as Lycra and Roica perform better and push up quotes.

Premium materials include bamboo charcoal, chitin, silk, Meryl and memory alloy. Textile treatments for various functional features also factor in.

When considering components, plastic boning is less expensive than stainless steel varieties, and hook-and-eye closures are preferred to zippers.

Designs that cover more parts of the body are priced higher.