Model 07-243 from Fu Wah is a pair of 98:2 cotton-spandex, 11.5oz ringspun denim jeans with a low rise and flared legs. The pair is available in women's sizes 27 to 34.

Growing eco-consciousness is pushing makers to adopt "green" practices, but logistical challenges are slowing development.

Demand for environment-friendly apparel, including jeans, has spurred Hong Kong companies to start adopting sustainable manufacturing processes. The launching of organic denim lines, however, has been slow to take hold, primarily because suppliers are finding it difficult to ensure that each step in the manufacturing chain complies with eco-friendly standards.

While there are a handful of companies now offering denim jeans woven from organic cotton, most makers are still at the sourcing and prototype stages. Suppliers that are looking for fabric mills to purchase materials from have had difficulty monitoring the production chain. As such, they cannot know for sure whether the denim purchased actually came from organic farms. Regulations on determining whether fabric is made partly or entirely from naturally grown cotton are just being established. Only a few accreditation agencies, including Organic Exchange and Oeko-Tex, are in place.

What most companies are doing is to look at other ways to incorporate sustainable practices in production. Certain makers are focusing on alternative washing and finishing techniques, and are conducting research on the use of natural indigo or vegetable dyes for tinting, potato starching, and ozone and handwashing. Those with in-house washing facilities have established on-site wastewater treatment plants to prevent chemicals from polluting the local water supply.

Some manufacturers are considering sourcing from material, washing and finishing suppliers clustered close to where their factories are located. Apart from reducing transportation costs, doing so lowers their carbon footprint.

Others are focusing on lowering utility bills by saving on energy and water in their facilities, or are upgrading machinery to raise efficiency.

Even the latest jeans have been designed with environmental friendliness in mind. Companies are releasing traditional five-pocket models in a range of blues that require minimal chemical processing.

The high cost of organic cotton and upgrading to more sustainable manufacturing processes, however, has limited such developments to companies exporting to the US and Western Europe. Suppliers targeting the Middle East, Africa, Asia and Eastern Europe have seen no need for enhancements, since eco-friendly designs account for less than 5 percent of orders.

Jeans made of organic cotton and produced through sustainable practices can be at least twice as expensive as regular versions. Some designs can even be priced four times more than conventional denim.

	Fu Wah has released men's jeans model 07-409 in 12oz brushed cotton denim. The pair has a regular fit and comes in a straight-cut design.

A few suppliers are even adopting premium-washed denim. All processes used on the denim are done by hand, whether to create whiskers or a distressed look. But since premium washes can cost up to $30, only a small number of companies are able to adopt the material in designs.

Among the companies interviewed for this report, Fu Wah Trading (HK) Ltd offers midrange and upscale jeans in pure or spandex-blended cotton. Prices range from $6.50 to $14.

The latest releases come in off colors of ash, brown and gray, or in vintage blues. Popular styles feature crinkling, brushing, whiskers and destroyed effects, as well as rinse and enzyme washes.

Designs for women have large metallic rivets, leather trimming or ornate stitching detail, while models for men feature patchwork, tinting and overdyed effects.

Higher-priced versions adopt imported fabric and trims.

Fu Wah's 250-worker mainland China factory in Guangzhou, Guangdong province, can manufacture 70,000 pairs a month. Fifteen QC inspectors monitor product quality, including fabric testing.

Washing is subcontracted to partner suppliers that have wastewater treatment facilities.

Fu Wah ships mainly to Bahrain, Jordan and the UAE in the Middle East, Africa and Eastern Europe. OEM orders account for 50 percent of exports, and the rest are shipped under the in-house Gusto, Chase Culture and Garray brands.

Junson (HK) Industrial Ltd offers midrange and high-end models priced between $4 and $18. The latest jeans feature simple cuts. Men's designs have straight legs and regular fits, while women's styles come in low-rise boot-cut versions.

Most jeans adopt 100 percent cotton or 98:2 cotton-spandex denim, and are exported to the US, Germany, Italy, Spain and Australia. Ninety percent of orders are under OEM contracts.

The company operates a 150-worker factory in Foshan, Guangdong. There are five QC personnel and six R&D specialists. Sewing, cutting and finishing are done in-house.

Between 25 and 30 styles are released per season. Sampling takes 30 days.

Sino Union Apparel Co. Ltd specializes in denim garments. New models feature frayed edges, enzyme washes, sandblasting, pleating, crinkling, resin, tinting and destroy effects. The best-selling designs for women have metallic stitching and embroidery, while those for men have crosshatch, tinting and colored stitching details. Prices range from $5.50 to $10.

The company has started developing its organic denim line using materials from Union Textile, a well-established fabric mill in Hong Kong. Director Billy Kwan said the company had a difficult time finding organic fabric suppliers, since there are only a few licensedmakers for this type of material. Organic denim costs about 70 percent more than regular blends.

The 30-member R&D team can release a sample within two weeks. Products are exported mainly to the US, Poland and Germany.

Ninety-five percent of shipments are OEM orders. Among the major clients are Apollo, Bill Blass, AB Jeans, and Basic House from the US, and Poland's Bmore Jeans.

Sino Union operates a 20,000sqm factory in Guangzhou with 36 production lines. There are more than 1,000 workers, including 30 QC inspectors. Sewing, washing and finishing are done in-house.