Blends, machine weaving lead India pashmina shawl trends

Mixing fabrics allows makers to supplement scarce materials while using machines enables mass production.

India suppliers of pashmina shawls are adopting textile blends to improve durability and sheen, cut costs and conserve scant material resource. Traditionally handspun and -woven, many of the latest releases are also machine-woven, allowing for mass production.

Pashmina comes mostly from the wool of changra goats found in the mountainous region of Ladakh in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Locals domesticate the animals primarily for their milk and wool. Each goat can produce only about 100g of wool annually, making the material scarce and raising the prices of pure pashmina shawls. In reponse, manufacturers are blending pashmina with silk, viscose and cashmere at ratios between 20 and 80 percent. Some companies are also mixing recycled silk and wool thread.

Pure pashmina shawls are known for their softness and lightness, but do not possess luster like those in silk versions. The use of textile blends improves the products' strength and sheen.

To create visually appealing designs, manufacturers are fusing new colors such as sea green, ivory, turquoise blue and pink with the conventional light green, maroon, black, white, beige, gray, blue and deep red. Models may have paisleys, floral prints or tie-dyed designs. Embroidery is another popular method of pattern application. This can be done manually or with the use of machines. Needle, ari, kantha and sozni are the common techniques. Geometric shapes and nature themes are prevalent. Releases may also be embellished with beads, sequins and fringes.

Machine-woven pieces dominate the line. Most shawls come in a plain, jamawar or twill construction. Models have single to four-ply structures. Popular sizes are 100x200, 140x200, 70x180 and 200x75cm.

The materials and design are the main price determinants for India-made pashmina shawls.

The least expensive releases go for $12 to $30. These adopt 20 percent pashmina blended with viscose or wool. Most are machine-woven, plain and have machine-embroidered patterns.

Midrange versions are made of 30 to 50 percent pashmina mixed with silk, viscose, cashmere or Merino wool. Products come in plain and jamawar weaves, and are often fabricated manually. Models may have embroidered patterns and sequin adornments. Colors are applied using vegetable dyes. Releases list at $31 to $100.

High-end shawls utilize 50 to 80 percent pashmina combined with silk or fine cashmere. Many are handwoven and -embroidered, and available in jamawar or twill construction. Sequins and beads are adopted as embellishment while organic and vegetable dyes are used for coloring. Prices start at $101 and can top $1,000.

Turquiose blue

Cashmere Queen's model 9540 shawl combines 50:50 pashmina-cashmere. The product is handwoven and has allover floral needle embroidery. Turquoise blue is the standard color. The shawl measures 100x200cm. Price is $60 for a minimum order of 100 pieces.

Floral pattern

Cashmere Queen's selection also includes the model 9557 handwoven shawl made of 60:40 pashmina-cashmere. It features allover floral needle embroidery and measures 100x200cm. The shawl comes in white and goes for $70. MOQ is 100 pieces.

Multicolor ari

The model 23 shawl from Priya Global adopts 100 percent cashmere and features allover multicolor machine-woven ari embroidery. It is adorned with fringes. Product dimensions are 100x200cm. The shawl is quoted at $36 for an MOQ of 200 pieces.

Sozni embroidery

Rex Textile Corp. offers the model 1 handspun shawl that utilizes 85:15 cashmere-silk. The manually woven product comes in red and has allover needle sozni embroidery. It measures 100x200cm. For an MOQ of 20 pieces, the shawl lists at $75.

80:20 pashmina-silk

Rex Textile Corp. also has the model 2 80:20 pashmina-silk shawl in its selection. The product is handspun and -woven, and features manually embroidered borders. It comes in ivory and measures 200x75cm. Price is $300. A minimum order of 20 pieces is required.

Machine-embroidered

The model 19873 pure cashmere shawl from Sam Inc. comes with allover multicolor machine-embroidered designs. It is trimmed with fringes and available in gray. Product dimensions are 70x180cm. The shawl is priced at $13. Minimum order is 100 pieces.

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