Priced $9 per meter, the F25H12 model from Satyam is made of 14 percent silk and 86 percent viscose.

Textiles have distinct characteristics depending on the type of raw silk adopted. Colors range from rich to sedate.

India suppliers adopt mulberry, tasar, eri and muga, the four commercially known varieties of natural silk, in turning out silk fabrics in pure and blended forms.

Yielding textiles in rich colors, mulberry is the top choice among the four. Tasar is highly textured and comes in a range of natural colors such as off-white, beige and golden brown. It is easy to dye and can be combined with cotton, wool or linen.

Eri or endi is both coarse and fine, and is used in blends with cotton, jute, wool or mulberry silk. Meanwhile, muga silk is considered a premium fabric variety because of its golden yellow sheen. The wild silk’s brightness improves with every wash. Vanya, another type of wild silk, is also available.

Blends are growing in popularity because they are 25 to 50 percent less expensive than pure silk. They have good drape, can withstand abrasion and are wrinkle-free. Silk-modal knitted fabric, which has high air permeability, abrasion resistance and thermal conductivity, is preferred for garments. Low water absorbency and water vapor transmission suit winter wear.

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh-based Silk Fashion Creator offers 70:30 silk-cotton, polyester-silk, silk-viscose and pure silk fabrics made using hand, power and semiautomatic looms. The company uses domestic mulberry and China yarn, and incorporates cotton-jamdani and brocade weave in the textile. Embroidered silk is also available.

Satyam Fabrics combines silk with cotton and viscose in 80:20 and 85:15 ratios. The supplier offers pure silk as well, including matka, noil, ghicha, katia, fasua and eri.

Chiffon, crepe, dupion, georgette and satin weave are the popular India-made silk fabric constructions. These are mainly used for women’s garments such as formal dresses, gowns, skirts, tops, sleepwear and scarves. Suppliers also turn out organza, katia from waste tasar, matka handspun from pierced mulberry cocoons and taffeta. Patterns are often digitally printed. Prices depend on the type of silk, weave, weight and blend ratio.

The low-end includes polyester, dyed and printed cotton, printed chiffon and viscose blends with 15 to 30 percent silk. Fabric weight is 25 to 60g while width is 44in. A meter goes from $3.25 to $8.

Katia, matka, silk-cotton jamdani with a 20:80:10 silk-cotton-zari composition, 86:14 viscose-silk and 80:20 silk-cotton 80 to 125g are midrange. Dyed silk-georgette weighing 55 or 60g, silk-crepe and silk habutai fall in this segment as well. Quotes reach $15 per meter.

Handspun muga, banarasi, manually loomed kinkhab, 90 to 95g plain pleated sulk, 110 or 115g silk taffeta and pure dupion 110 or 115g are high end. Prices are between $15.50 and $45.

Industry overview

India is the second-largest producer of silk in the world, accounting for more than 15 percent of total world share.

The country is home to more than 2,000 suppliers of silk fabric, with nearly 1,000 exporting. Close to 450 turn out vanya silk while 150 are located in Varanasi. About two-thirds of the manufacturing base is small, with a monthly capacity of 5,000 to 10,000m. Midsize makers number 600. They can release up to 50,000m every month. Capacity at large operations ranges between 50,000 and 100,000m.

Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir are the primary mulberry silk producing hubs. Kancheevaram, Banaras and Dharmavaram are the traditional weaving centers for silk saris.

The US, Europe, Australia, Japan and Southeast Asia are the key export markets. Suppliers are targeting China in the next several months.

Product gallery

Eco Tasar Silk (P) Ltd
Model: PR-461
MOQ: 60m per design/color
Delivery: 90 days
Price: $15
Description: Tasar silk-cotton blend; 60:40; handspun; dobby weave; 44in wide; printed; for upholstery

RC Export House
Model: Embroidery Type
MOQ: 100m
Delivery: 35 days
Price: $21
Description: 100% dupion silk; power loom woven; beige with embroidery; 54in wide; 110 ±5g; for garments, curtains and upholstery

RC Export House
Model: Printed Type
MOQ: 100m per design/color
Delivery: 35 days
Price: $9.20
Description: Silk crepe; 100% silk; printed; floral pattern; 44in wide; 55/60g; for garments

Satyam Fabrics
Model: F18C02
MOQ: 300m per design/color
Delivery: 90 days
Price: $12
Description: Raw silk-cotton blend; 80:20; twill weave; golden color; 44in wide; 120g; for upholstery and garments

Satyam Fabrics
Model: F25H12
MOQ: 300m per design/color
Delivery: 90 days
Price: $9
Description: Silk blend; 14% silk, 86% viscose; jacquard weave; olive green; printed pattern; 44in wide; 125g; for garments, scarves/stoles

Silk Fashion Creator
Model: 120120
MOQ: 500m
Delivery: 60 days
Price: $7.50
Description: Silk blend; 20% silk, 70% cotton, 10% zari; jamdani weave; pink; printed pattern; 44in wide; used for dresses, suits