just love this kind of maverick

Global SourcesUpdated on 2023/12/01

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In the world of fine watches, in addition to those brands and phenotypes that follow the rules, there are always some people who like to take a different approach and create a series of watches that are either shocking or surprising. Almost all of them come from a group of so-called "independent watchmakers".

Follow us this time as we explore two talented independent watchmakers.

Christophe Claret, a lot of fun

The story between Christophe Claret and watchmaking is hard to describe. Sometimes we have to attribute these unexplained associations to "fate."

Christophe Claret was born into a wealthy family in Lyon, France in 1962 and worked hard to complete his studies at a private school . At the age of 14, he visited a watch repairer by chance, and his life was doomed. Christophe Claret was not yet 20 years old when he graduated from the Geneva Watch School. In the past, he had little interest in learning and believed that the industry was vibrant and promising. Driven by curiosity and a thirst for knowledge, he continued his studies at the Roger Dubuis workshop, which under its umbrella taught him the secrets of horological restoration and complications.

After returning to his hometown, he established his first true watchmaking workshop in the family mansion. The materials and tools he used were purchased from the flea markets in Geneva and Lyon, and since then he has specialized in the restoration of antique watches, his diligent finishing techniques, and the manufacture of skeleton watches.

In 1987, Christophe Claret was 25 years old. He attended Baselworld for the first time, where he met someone who changed his destiny. Mr. Rolf Schnyder, a Swiss industrial tycoon who had just acquired Ulysse Nardin, ordered 20 minute repeater movements with striking figures. This became the starting point of his illustrious career.

The Neuchâtel Mountains are home to one-third of Switzerland's watchmaking talent, bringing together craftsmanship and technology that is unique in the world. More than 20 years ago, Christophe Claret decided to start here. On the basis of the first company founded by La Chaux-de-Fonds, he founded the Claret Manufacture, which quickly rose to become a global benchmark in the field of super-complication movements.

Brands known for making the most intricate timepieces, such as Ulysse Nardin, Franck Muller, de Grisogono, Jean Dunand and Harry Winston, are coming. Christophe Claret decided to give the company a new image commensurate with his reputation and ambitions. In 1999, he acquired the Golden Sunshine Manor, an old mansion on the high ground near Le Locle, just a stone's throw from the Gunsan Watch Museum. He set up workshops here to reinvigorate the splendid mansion of legendary watchmaker Urban Jürgensen.

While serving a well-known watch brand incognito, Christophe Claret also manufactures unique watches for collectors with his own name. It was not until 2009, when the shocking DualTow came out, that the public had the opportunity to witness the extraordinary talent of this extraordinary watchmaker.

DualTow Musical Timekeeping Single Button Tourbillon Chronograph was launched on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Claret watch factory, equipped with Multiple invention mechanisms, including a patent. It combines all the craftsmanship of the brand, and ingeniously uses a transmission belt to display the hour and minute hands. Its hand-wound mechanical movement houses several innovative and sophisticated components, such as a gong that sounds when the chronograph pusher is activated.

DualTow is produced in a limited edition of 68 pieces, each of which is unique in appearance. The DualTow NightEagle launched in 2010 is even more unique. Noble and elegant, delicate, splendid and restrained appearance further highlights its extraordinary mechanical structure. The shape is natural, with multiple reference marks. The first is a highly stealthy stealth fighter, such as the American F-117 Nighthawk fighter; the second draws on the avant-garde stealth characteristics of the Lamborghini Reventon sports car; its transmission belt display refers to large and high-power machines, such as mechanical excavators and lunar rovers.

The Christophe Claret brand is now one of the few independent haute horlogerie brands capable of designing, developing and producing watches in-house. As a result, it is unique in the Swiss watchmaking industry and ranks at the forefront of watch creation.

MB&F: A Fantastic Journey on the Watchmaking Table

In any manufacturing industry there are a few unconventional characters. They are different and treat manufacturing as an artistic creation. In the watchmaking world, MB&F is such a ruthless character.

In the true sense, MB&F is not a complete watch brand, but a watchmaking art And technology's concept lab, they even have a track record of hand-building motorcycles. Born in Switzerland in 2005, the "Kingdom of Watches", it has only been 8 years since it has been a true "niche" in the independent watchmaking industry. But in the second year of its founding, they launched a mechanical watch HM1, and since then those skeptical voices have no longer pointed to its founder, Maximilian Büsser. He is an adventurous design genius with a deep understanding of micro-technology engineering. In his 30th year, he moved from Jaeger-LeCoultre to the top watch company in Geneva, Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, and took the position of managing director. . During his seven-year tenure, he built this very mediocre brand into a powerful watchmaking kingdom that is well-respected in the industry. As soon as his term came, he decided to leave and set up his own company, which would later become MB&F.

Everyone involved in MB&F watch design will feel that the process of designing a watch at MB&F is tantamount to an adventure with an unknown future. Because they have to design the most eye-catching watch to be successful.

Each MB&F is a masterpiece that will never get tired of watching, but they all have one thing in common Point, that is the tension that is about to burst out. This is the case with the Thunderbolt watch, the fourth model in the HM series, which is also very nostalgic, with a shape that resembles an aircraft engine. To create such a watch is also the wish of the founder Maximilian Büsser. He likes to assemble various aircraft models since he was a child, and he has a special liking for fighter jets. The most important thing is that he also firmly believes that there must be someone who has the same hobby as him.

In order to make it look more like "an airplane", the designer added titanium alloy rivets to the dial, and treated the two dials to look like aircraft instruments. The unique Super-LumiNova paint is also very eye-catching at night. . Just to polish the crystal mirror cut from the cylindrical sapphire, the craftsmen will be busy for days. So well crafted, it's no wonder that only 8 pieces are issued.

No one will use a watch with the "MB&F" logo as a pure timepiece, and every detail of it can burst out the inspiration of watch connoisseurs. Poetic lines, ingenious skills, imaginative inspiration... Maybe MB&F's watch looks too exaggerated, but the wisdom and hard work condensed in it are enough to make it a rare art in the world.

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