These bangles from Hitaishi are made of polished natural horn. The rectangular model is priced at $7.50.
Bracelets, earrings, necklaces and cocktail rings catch the eye with large accents and embellishments, and bright colors.
India’s latest costume jewelry is heavy and oversized, with suppliers getting inspiration from “global” influences such as African wildlife and tribes, Western bohemian fashion, ancient civilizations and gothic designs.
Most models are handcrafted, and can be filigreed, chiseled, cast, engraved, imprinted, electroplated, oxidized or enamel painted. Faceted and dual-color beads, mother of pearl, and metal and fabric braids and charms boost the richness of the designs.
As for colors, suppliers are shifting to fiery red, bright pink, aqua blue, deep rust, pale yellow, metallic and soft, gray and jade green. Black and ivory remain all-time favorites.
Bracelets constitute the bulk of India’s costume jewelry exports. Fabric, jute, leather, bamboo and seed bead models are braided, twisted or wrapped. Metal pieces are embellished with multiple strands of stones and beads, and are oxidized. Cuffs and bangles made of horn, resin, wood, lac and glass are painted, imprinted, engraved or have multifaceted beads. Mother of pearl, shells, beads, rhinestones and crystal trimmings, and large charms are common in cuffs.
Heavy chandelier earrings have a cast metal base, metal wire and stones or beads. Multistring bead types have crystals, feathers or pompoms at the end. Danglers have intertwined loops, twisted wire, and embellishments in various novelty shapes, including fruits and daggers.
Neck jewelry includes heavy chokers with a fabric base, beads and stones. Necklaces consist of multiple strands of stones and beads, or knotted cords with beads and rings made of metal, horn, wood or bamboo. Some new models have feathers, and fabric beads, leaves and petals strung on metal wire. Pendant necklaces have one large or two ornaments in bone, horn, resin, wood or metal. The pendants hang from the center or one side on a metal chain or leather, cotton cord, twisted wire or fabric braid.
Cocktail rings with a wide metal band, two or three large colored stones and small stones forming a round or oval border are popular. Resin and bone models are also available.
Hitaishi Creative Enterprises Pvt. Ltd’s spring/summer 2014 collection includes oversized earrings, wide cuffs, drop pendants and shield rings made of flattened plates of horn with a natural polish. Gold, silver, black and white are the season’s hot colors.
Amid the popularity of oversized costume jewelry, small and delicate pieces are still available for certain markets in Europe and Japan. Kohli Overseas Trading Co. is among the India suppliers offering such designs, focusing on bracelets and cuffs. It utilizes primarily glass seed beads, which are inexpensive yet come in varied color options and can be dyed in Pantone shades. Coral pink, light aqua and mint green are popular. Kohli’s pull-string bracelets are made of waxed cotton cord with glass and metal beads. Cuffs use iron and glass beads.
India’s varied selection of costume jewelry is thanks to its 5,000-suppler manufacturing base. Between 500 and 600 companies are exporters, based primarily in Delhi, the NCR, Moradabad, Sambhal, Mumbai, Jaipur and Kolkata.
Most suppliers are small, capable of turning out 10,000 to 30,000 pieces per month. About 300 are midsize. They have a 50,000- to 75,000-piece capacity. Roughly 100 are large because they can yield more than 100,000 costume jewelry monthly.
The US and the EU are the major export destinations, followed by Australia, Canada and Japan. Makers will target Israel, the Middle East and Latin America in the next six months.
Products & prices
Costume jewelry from India ranges from $0.50 to $35. Models are made of brass, iron, nickel, white metal, wood, bone, horn, shells, leather, feathers, lac, plastic beads and stones. Materials are sourced from Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Bihar, West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh.
Low-end rings, bangles, bracelets, earrings and necklaces are lightweight and have simple constructions. They adopt metal, stone, glass, resin, plastic, lac, fabric, feathers, seed beads and jute. They are $0.50 to $3.
The midrange includes $3.50 to $8 bangles, bracelets, cuffs, earrings and necklaces with oversized designs in bone or horn, wood, rhinestones, leather and metal. They are engraved, cast, enamel painted or etched, or have twist or braid work. Beads of various shapes and materials, multiple strands and large pendants characterize models in this segment. Trims are made of satin, mother or pearl or crystals.
High-end necklaces, cuffs and bracelets use brass, copper, horn, wood and glass. Multiple strands, oversized ornaments, pendants and beads, and pearl, crystal and mother-of-pearl embellishments are common. Pieces exceed $20.
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