Some problems can't be detected during apparel QC inspections

By Renaud Anjoran

A few years ago, I wrote about the limits of random quality inspections. My focus in that article was on the random elements, on human mistakes, and on the tricks that manufacturers can play.

Today I’d like to write about issues that simply can’t be detected during inspections, even if 100% of the goods are checked and inspectors do a perfect job.

I will write about a product line that I know well: apparel.

What issues can’t be caught in apparel QC inspections?

I always need to educate clients about what our QA team can, and cannot, detect in the factories. Here are some common issues with apparel that we simply can’t catch:

• Yellowing of white fabric — this often becomes obvious 2-4 months after production. A good chemical testing laboratory can help set up the right program for catching this issue.
• Fitting issues that can only be caught by a fitting model… We can’t catch this with Chinese or Indian people from the factory, who have different sizing. All we can do is flag issues in measurements found vs. the client’s size chart.
• Garment construction issues that only appear after a wearing period or several washing cycles — for example, on a bra, the wired piercing out of the bar tack seam.
• Damages that occur during transportation — for example, garments become wrinkled, or foam at the bottom get permanently deformed. The key here is to specify the right packaging.
• More and more factories, all across Asia, use special pens to guide stitching, in an effort to replace chalk (which might leave marks and lead to defective goods). After a few days, the ink of these ‘magic pens’ becomes invisible… until cold air in the importing country makes them re-appear!

The “mega issue” you may not be aware of

I addition, there is a “mega issue” that can hide many problems: the fact that factories often press garments — this operation consists of ironing and, to a variable extent, stretching the products. Then, the products are packed (and kept under pressure). And inspection might take place 2 hours after that.

Why is it a “mega issue”? It can hide these two problems:

• Wrinkles and puckering might be invisible (or reduced to the point where they are acceptable) during an inspection, but they re-appear after shipment.
• Measurements found are artificially larger than reality. If the factory cut the fabric in pieces that are too small and/or used excessive seam allowances, production might be under tolerance… and a good pressing job can get them back within tolerance for a few hours/days — just enough to fool inspectors.

What is enraging about this “mega issue” is, most Chinese suppliers refuse to acknowledge they did something wrong, once real problems become obvious again. If it looked good at one point, it should always be good, or so they pretend.

More examples of post-sale quality issues

On the same topic, last year, I wrote about post-sale quality issues on ChinaImportal.com. I gave three examples:

1. Electronic products

Photo credit: Image, Dodgertonskillhause, morguefile CC license

2. Products with parts glued together

3. Mechanical elements

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Do you have any other examples of issues that apparel QC inspections couldn’t catch for you or post-sale quality issues? I think there must be an infinite amount out there. Please share yours in the comments below… thanks!

Featured image credit: Free photo 109888473 © creativecommonsstockphotos – Dreamstime.com

Renaud Anjoran has been managing his quality assurance agency (Sofeast Ltd) since 2006. In addition, a passion for improving the way people work has pushed him to launch a consultancy to improve factories and a web application to manage the purchasing process. He writes advice for importers on qualityinspection.org.