These conch earrings from Mohini International incorporate beads, thread and metal spikes.

Makers add handapplied designs and assorted ornaments to enhance aesthetics.

India’s shell jewelry line is characterized by pieces with distinct designs and adornments. Releases range from earrings, necklaces and bracelets to pendants, hairclips and rings. These come in pieces or sets.

Many models feature handcarving and cutwork. Carvings on shell surfaces complement the actual motif. In popular nature-inspired pieces, etches resemble leaf veins and flower or petal detail. For on-trend geometric-shaped jewelry, contours vary and are manually cut.

Elevating design further is the integration of metal coils or braided cotton threads that are wrapped around the shells. Rings, glass, stones, horns, bones, jute, pop beads, inserts or brass cowrie are attached to various cord segments, or dangle from the end strings or metal loops.

Pieces incorporate 3 to 10in whole shells or chips in natural color, painted or with silver, gold and other finishes. Red, pink, blue, green, purple, orange, ivory, black and fluorescent shells are prevalent.

Arkan Enterprise offers geometric, flower and leaf-shaped shell earrings, necklaces, bracelets, broaches and hairclips. These come with handcarving, cutwork and metal, crystal or thread embellishments. The available finishes are copper, brass and silver. The Hasli necklace or choker is one of their in-demand products.

Mohini International produces conch jewelry with pop, metal or glass beads, or twisted metal wires or thread. The shells, in flower or geometric shapes, feature cutwork. The supplier’s drop earrings can be single- or multistrand. Necklaces have multiple strands and incorporate whole or shell fragments with optional pendants.

Tarun International turns in single- and multistrand necklaces made of cowrie, pom, cast metal, cotton cord, glass, bone and horn beads or bugle rings. The shells are in ivory or other colors. The company also makes double-pendant shell necklaces with knotted gold or silver threads.

Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu are India’s major manufacturing hubs for shell jewelry.

Shells common

Among the dominant types of shells utilized by India makers are conch, clam, tusk, mother-of-pearl, cowrie, abalone, and other types of land and sea snail shells.

The Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and South, Northeast and -west regions of India are the sources of domestic shells. Imported abalone shells typically come from New Zealand.

The shells go from $1 to $6 per kilogram, depending on size or symmetry, glare, freshness and strength. Imported variations cost five to six times more than domestic types.

Products & prices

The price of shell jewelry is mainly determined by the size, shape, quality, color and add-ons.

Low-end earrings or studs, necklaces and bracelets are quoted from $0.15 to $0.75. Single-strand models are common and use two to four natural color or painted small river snail shells. These can have plain or handcarved designs. Seeds, glass and metal beads on nylon threads boost pieces visually.

Midrange models have multiple strands and colors, and go for $0.76 to $2. These incorporate four to six whole conches, cowrie, mother-of-pearl, medium-size or multiple shell chips. Metal rings, pop or cast beads, bone or horn, fine carving or cutting and metal wire crafts adorn the pieces.

High-end variants feature multiple strands or a number of whole mollusk, clam or abalone shells. These are complemented by sea weeds, mother-of-pearl, metal cast beads and molds, and rings. Fine artwork highlighted by gold, silver, paint and silk thread closures can be added. The pieces are priced between $2.10 and $3. Quotes for abalone bracelets and pendants start at $10 and can exceed $70.

Related report:
Beaded bracelets: New India costume jewelry bold and heavy

Product gallery

Arkan Enterprise
Model: Mop 01
MOQ: 100 sets
Delivery: 30 days
Price: $1.40
Description: Hasli necklace, flower design; dangling earrings with metal loop; manual cutwork

Arkan Enterprise
Model: Mop ER 03
MOQ: 100 pairs
Delivery: 30 days
Price: $0.70
Description: Drop earrings; mother-of-pearl; petal shape; brown; metal loop, gold-polished; manual cutwork

Emrusa Jewellers
Model: EP 367
MOQ: 50 pieces
Delivery: 45 days
Price: $12.50
Description: Pendant; abalone; natural color, shape; cast metal fitting, gold polish; 10g

Emrusa Jewellers
Model: EB 568
MOQ: 50 pieces
Delivery: 45 days
Price: $73
Description: Bracelet; abalone; metal closure; multicolor; various shapes; 46g

Mohini International
Model: ME 9975
MOQ: 100 pairs
Delivery: 45 days
Price: $1.05
Description: Drop earrings; conch, pop beads; with iron wire, thread; hanging metal spikes

Tarun International
Model: F-118
MOQ: 200 pieces
Delivery: 45 days
Price: $1.90
Description: Necklace; multicolor, -strand river shells and seaweeds on thread cord; 18in length