Oeko-Tex modifies criteria for Step certification

The International Oeko-Tex Association has set new criteria for its Sustainable Textile Production or STeP certification that will provide the textile supply chain a transparent scoring system in determining the sustainability of production facilities. Oeko-Tex's STeP standard allows brands, retailers and manufacturers to have each area of their facilities evaluated in accordance with environmental and social criteria by an independent body.

With the recent modifications, the organization's list of excluded harmful substances for textile production now complies with the requirements of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals or ZDHC initiative. This means that facilities already STeP-certified will likewise meet ZDHC's specifications.

Oeko-Tex also revised its "Environmental Performance" module, which now requires that sludge from STeP-certified companies' waste water-treatment facilities to be stored in a manner that prevents ground contamination. The group also recommends that sludge residues to be disposed of by professionals in adherence to environmental-protection regulations.

Companies need to prove that the chemicals they use are being transported safely by trained staff as well. Emergency equipment has to be checked at least once a year instead of the previous two year interval.

In addition, the modified "Social Responsibility" module calls for certified companies to have statutory rules for a suitable level of maternity protection to ensure paid maternity leave in the context of ILO Core Labor Standard 183. If companies do not have existing regulations, they are required to lay out guidelines.

Oeko-Tex has also expanded to include a category for ethical standards. The Responsible Down Standard, for example, is now specifically listed as a reference tool that STeP certified-companies should use to provide evidence of responsible procurement of down and feather for their products.

Last month, Oeko-Tex has launched its Eco Passport testing program, which allows manufacturers of textile processing chemicals, including dyes, performance additives, finishing agents, lubricants and detergents, to confirm if their products can be used in sustainable textile production.

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